Sous-Vide "Clash of the Aphorist"

A little rant followed up with an experiment based on a subjective opinion.

I belong to a few Sous-Vide Food groups on Facebook, and there seems to be a growing division concerning the proteins pretreatment before being cooked. You have advocates on both sides that are adamant about their technique. Some use science to back up their claim, but in the end, it's about how something tastes. I'm not kidding either; people actually debate taste. They may call it something else to detract from what I think is so obvious. I've seen people, that are masters at debating, change an entire conversation to suit their perceived conclusions. The frustration for me is when the discussion pivots: the antagonist is skilled at debating, so he does what politicians do, he redirects the conversation. Since he cannot argue something that's unsustainable, he changes the conversation. 

 To get on one's soapbox and argue an opinion is fruitless and a waste of time. This argument or position rises to the level of religiosity and romance. The pretentious attitudes that accompany the debates are tiresome. Anyhow, to close out my rant, I'll just add the following. The post you're about to read, (maybe) is based on conjecture, and what I know/think to be true. 

Let's get this out of the way before we continue. Based on science, salt is the only thing that can penetrate protein...DONE...take a look at the following: The Secrets And Myths Of Marinades, Brinerades, And How Gashing Can Make Them Work Better by Meathead Goldwyn. I've read all his articles and all the links associated with this subject. Also, I have reviewed a multitude of scientific papers, posts, and periodicals that assert the same thing. The above link is my favorite because it gets straight to the point, and makes it simple to understand. I agree whole heartily with everything he wrote. Anything added to a protein except for salt is mostly a surface treatment. 

VIDEO- Dr. Greg Blonder: "The Magic Of Salt: So Vital, And So Misunderstood" (53 mins)

The penetration of the matrix is dependent on the type of protein. It might penetrate 2/3- 1-inch in 24 hours. This is why salting both sides is essential. Also during the cooking process or more specifically thermodynamically the salt will push/penetrate even further into the meat. The hastened movement to my knowledge has not been quantified. Merely put Ion diffusion is diminished with cold temperatures and with heat salt will distribute and penetrate deeper. 

However, that being said, one cannot dispute an opinion. I don't care if you bring up taste, smell/smells or how our senses interpret taste. It's about what a person prefers (science be damned). I know people that swear well-done steak is the bomb!! And even though that is crazy talk to me, I don't care. Just don't preach to me that it's the greatest thing in the world and everyone should like it that way. 

Over the years I have experimented with many cuts of meat and many treatments. Here's a list of some of my experiments.  Do I do everything the same way? No, I do not. In my opinion, there are times I like adding herbs to vac bag, and other times I do not.
A good example would be my Turkey Roulade and my Deconstructed Rib-Roast. Mind you, this is just two examples; I have many more. One thing is absolute for me. I never SV any protein nekkid, meaning at a minimum, I always add salt. I always dry-brine for a minimum of 6 hours too. Nekkid produces flavorless meat, in my opinion. I have conducted numerous experiments using salt and give many examples of why this is a good thing. 

Here's another excellent read that dives into "Penetrating the Protein Matrix  “Blue Pill or Red Pill,” "Sous-Vide and Jaccarding (Mechanical Tenderization)" and "Sous-Vide and Pre-Searing. Philosophical or Ideological?"

The following is a blind experiment involving different protein treatments. I used Hanger steaks because they are not too big and not too small. Steak #1- 281 grams treated with .60% salt, Steak #2- 289 grams treated with .60% salt and some seasonings. Steak #3- 284 grams was marinated with some fresh squeezed OJ, Lime, a touch of Soy, Fish Sauce, and again some seasonings. The marinade by volume was very small. All contents were placed in a ziplock bag. 

Steak #4- 264 grams was nekkid.

All steaks received a 12-hour rest in the refrigerator. After the 12 hour stay, they were Vac Sealed. The Bag containing the marinade was drained, meat dried off, and vac sealed too. All the steaks will be Warm Aged at 104 ℉ for 90 minutes. After the elapsed time, boiling water will be added to the container to hasten the temperature increase to 128 ℉, which is the finishing temp too. All 4 steaks will be SV'd for 5 hours. The steaks will be cold-shocked and stored in the refrigerator, awaiting the next step. The steaks will be removed from the Vac bags and dried thoroughly. I will place a small fan on them to ensure the drying process. The steaks will be weighed post SV and post sear. The steaks will be brushed with melted butter and coated with black pepper before searing except for steak #4, which needs salt.  

Review and Analysis- First, let me address the obvious. This was a blind taste test. Secondly, all the steaks were terrific. There wasn't a lousy steak among them. I mean, we ate them all, and there were no complaints. 

Steak #1- Awesome!!!! Juicy and full of flavor. Unanimous, everyone loved this steak. 

Steak#2- Just as excellent as #1. But here is the distinction. I believe the additional ingredients put if over the top for flavor. Ok, you might be wondering why you couldn't achieve the same results adding the Herb & Spices post SV? Well, you could, but there will be a significant flavor difference. I've done it both ways, and for some reason adding a dry-rub pre- SV brings the about unrivaled flavor. I can only describe this as a sumptuous meaning all the flavors combine to make something unique. In my opinion, if you add the same Herbs and flavors Post SV, it will be a deconstructed flavor. It will still be incredible, but just different. You would never know the difference unless they were side by side. 

Steak #3- It was delicious. The marinade was not bad at all. Everyone loved this steak too. No one expressed anything negative. Maybe....and barely noticeable not as tender as #1 or #2. Perhaps because of moisture loss? Now comes the kicker. The Herb & Spices were lost. Practically non-existent in taste. Still damn good to eat, though. 

Steak #4- Not as tender as #1, #2 & #3. It lacked flavor when compared to the other steaks. Just confirms my belief that pretreatment with salt is necessary. That being said, still a damn good steak. 

The spreadsheet above says it all... I will leave the analysis to you. 

Now, in my opinion, if you want the ultimate steak, you should combine Fish Salt with Herbs & Seasonings. 

Conclusion- Don't let anyone tell you how to think. Don't change if you are happy with your modus operandi. Be open to dialogue. Be open to trying new things. And most importantly, don't be bothered or offended if someone does not take your advice. In the end, is there a right way or wrong way? Who cares, food is either delicious, or it isn't.

more Hanger Steak HERE

Addendum's

Here’s a caveat to herbs in the bag. Thomas Keller suggests (I believe one of his chefs) placing herbs (if you must or find a need) in a plastic wrap sachet. Place sachet (simple folded plastic) in the bag on both sides of the protein. The released juices will intermingle with the herbs and perfume the meat. Again this is only a surface treatment. If you’re expecting more than a surface treatment, you need to lower your expectations... LOL. Placing herbs directly on the protein is not an optimum technique. All the posts before mine captured just about everything you would ever want to know, but let me add one more thing. Herbs pressed up against the protein will most likely have an (undesirable) robust and intense flavor that is isolated. If the protein is enormous and you add a twig or two (rosemary or thyme), the overall treatment will be small with an intense flavor where the herb made contact.

Some random thoughts by our friend and Chef Johnny James Gabaldon

What "nekkid" proponents fail to recognize is that some herbs have antioxidant properties. And while flavor may not penetrate deeply, herbs help to prevent the development of oxidizing off-flavors. The results are two-fold, 1. "surface" treatment that lends to the overall flavor 2. Prevention of certain off-flavors. In regards to surface treatment, I liken the minimal layer of flavor to fried chicken, the crust is very thin but still has a significant impact on taste. Ultimately, what works for you is what you should be doing, but IMO if you're not seasoning in the bag, you're leaving a lot on the table (pardon the pun)

I had an epiphany last night. I drove my kids to Starbucks and waited outside while they got a drink. When they got back in the car, they both smelled heavily of coffee. Neither one of them ordered a coffee drink. That smell brought on an emotional response from me. It smelled calming and soothing to me, and I wanted a cup. My thoughts on seasoning and herbs in the bag are that regardless of how far they penetrate, the flavor is flavor. At a minimum, I think everyone should be using salt before and during sous vide cook.