(Sous-Vide) Step-Down-Cooling-Method (Does it Work?)

The Step-Down-Cooling-Method developed by CREA is a novel approach to enhance moisture retention with Sous-Vide-Processed-Proteins. My buddy Kevin Holmes Liddell introduced the technique to me in October of 2019. Kevin took a few CREAS courses and was kind enough to share his knowledge with me. I even think he texted me during the class to tell me about this new (new to most of us) innovative approach to S.V. proteins. I initiated an internet search right away; it produced nada. I felt like a kid with a new toy. Anyhow, I started using this new approach, and for all intents and purposes, it seems to work. But the proof is in the pudding, so I need to test it and ensure it works as advertised. Kevin is the one that suggested I do this because he knows my attention to detail is so profound 🤣. Yes, I took some liberties with the why.

In theory, it makes total sense to me. It's the same reason all meat should rest after cooking. With SV-Processed proteins, it's enhanced because it's sitting in a pool of its own juices. Allowing the meat to relax away from heat before serving allows the juices to be reabsorbed and redistributed. A redistribution of fluids will improve texture and make for a juicer protein. It's important to understand that not all the juices will be reabsorbed, but just a tiny percentage of them, which can be as high as 5%, says CREA. 

After I decided to conduct this experiment, I did some googling, and lo and behold, several food websites are now suggesting the SDCM. And some have created videos showing you how to do the SDCM, too (Note: not giving any credit to CREA). I know for a fact (not revealing) that many of them took the CREA course. Also, it's fair to mention that during the ISVA Summit, AJ Schaller, who teaches at CREA, touched on the subject too. Bruno Goussault (Meet Bruno), Chief Scientist over at CREA, not only teaches this method but is the one who came up with the process. He also teaches that the Protein won't reabsorb moisture once you exceed 68 Celsius (154.4f). Note: It's necessary to mention that I composed all of this before I started to quantify the results. I started this with no assumptions.  

Before I conducted this experiment, I combed through this document The Eating Quality of Meat—IV Water-Holding Capacity and Juiciness- 

In book: Lawrie's Meat Science (pp.419-459)

Edition: 8

Chapter: 14

Publisher: Elsevier

Editors: Fidel Toldra

Let's discuss the muse or Protein I used to test SDCM. Using an 80/20 Ground-Beef, precise dimensions and weight should give some validity to the test. 

10-Molds were used. 5- Molds measured 24 x 100mm and 5-Molds measured 24 x 126mm. 

The 100 mm Molds held precisely 200 grams of 80/20 Ground meat, and the 126 mm Molds contained exactly 330 grams of 80/20 Ground meat. All Molds were cooked together at 131.5f using S.V. Probes until the point of pasteurization of 6.5D. Note: A calibrated I.C. Unit and SV-Probe was used. 

I went to great lengths to measure the weight at every cooling stage with all Molds. There were 5 stages of measurements for both the 100 mm and the 124 mm.

Before we continue, I want to take this moment to explain what I am doing. The pic at the top, it describes the Modus Operandi for a normal SDCM. What am I doing? I've never been accused of the lack of specificity, and it will not happen here, either. The First Stage is to get a base weight that all others will be compared to. Any weight beyond this number will tell me how much moisture has been reabsorbed. Stage 2-4 is more or less normal. In Stages 5 and 6, I continue to test to validate claims. 

First Stage- After processing to pasteurization,  Plastic is removed, Protein dried off, and weighed. 

Second Stage- After processing to pasteurization, set on the counter for 15-minutes and flipped several times; Plastic removed and weighed. 

Third Stage- After processing to pasteurization, set on the counter for 15-minutes and flipped several times; placed in a container with cold tap water for 15-Minutes; Plastic removed and weighed. 

Fourth Stage- After processing to pasteurization, set on the counter for 15-minutes and flipped several times, Placed in a container with cold tap water for 15-Minutes, a tremendous amount of ice was used to drop temp below 41f,  Plastic removed, and weighed. 

Fifth Stage- After processing to pasteurization, set it on the counter for 15-minutes and flipped several times. Placed in a container with cold tap water for 15-Minutes, a tremendous amount of ice was used to drop temp below 41f,  Rethermed, Plastic removed, and weighed.

Sixth Stage- All the stages through 5..... seared. The theory is the Protein should have a better texture. 

Well, not what I expected. There was virtually no change in weight throughout the stages of weighing. The 100 mm Mold Hamburger started at 200 grams and weighed, on average, 183 grams. In the Third Stage, it weighed in at 182 grams. The same thing occurred with the 126 mm Mold Hamburger. My thoughts? If the expectation of reabsorption is about 5%, that will not happen with Protein that only lost a smidgen of moisture. Also, the low temps and short cooks could have thrown a monkey wrench into CREA'S theory or possible hypothesis (I am calling it a theory/hypothesis until I've seen a scientific methodology with quantified results). In Stage 6- We seared off 5 burgers and ate them but did not detect any improvement over the standard method. Note: My standard is a rest of 5-8 minutes than a Sear. But dang, these burgers were freakishly good, and we ate them all. 

⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫

I decided to try Very Large Chicken Breasts this time, hoping that the increased protein size, time, and temp would make a difference (NOTE: No Seasoning or Salt). I decided to change up my methodology too. Instead of measuring the weight at every stage, I will measure immediately after S.V. and at the 3-rd Phase (Counter Rest 15-Minutes, 15-Minutes in Cold Water from Tap, And finally Iced down below 41f). Also, I added two different temps for the Breasts too. I am using 145f and 165f. The thought behind 165f is to test the theory that proteins cannot reabsorb moisture once you hit 154.4f (68 Celsius). I decided to add a standard cooked version to contrast some differences (145f & 165F). The traditional cooked version will be in a Saute pan coated with cooking spray.

Wow, take a look at these results. Thus far, the SDCM is a Bust. Look at #1 and #2. Even though #2 went through all the Phases- (Counter Rest 15-Minutes, 15-Minutes in Cold Water from Tap, And finally Iced down below 41f), it did not reabsorb any moisture and, in fact, lost 1.17% more weight. 

Number 3 & 4 is a bigger surprise. The idea that moisture cannot be reabsorbed at 154.4f (68c) is also a Bust. Processing at a higher temp loses more moisture, which is not surprising in the least. Heck, maybe for proteins to reabsorb their juices to any significant degree has to happen at higher temps? 

Number 5 & 6 requires no explanation. 

⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫⚫

The old motto works here.....If, at first, you don't succeed, try, try again. But is it my methodology or the fact that SDCM does not work?

I decided on the eye of round for a few reasons. Low-fat percentage, almost two identical halves, and I plan on a long cook at 128f at 24-Hours with no salt or seasonings. This is the last of the proteins I am willing to test. Fingers crossed. 

Note: Most of my posts that include testing or experimentation are written along the way. I scribble down some notes and thoughts and then proceed, which keeps my thoughts and expectations fresh. At this very moment, the Eye-of-Round is sitting in the bath.

Recap- Two halves of one Eye-of-Round processed at 128℉ for 24-Hours. 

Bag #1- Weight 822g- Processed, Removed from the Bath, Dried, and Weighed 675g. It lost 17.88 % of its weight. 

Bag #2= Weight 759g - Processed, went through all the Phases- (Counter Rest 15-Minutes, 15-Minutes in Cold Water from Tap, And finally Iced down below 41f), weighed in at 618g. It lost 18.58% of its weight and yielded an additional .7%. 

After processing Burgers, Chicken Breasts, and Eye-of-Round, I have to say the Step-Down-Cooling Method is a Bust. 

They also claim the texture is better using this method. I had blind tasters who did not know the test's crux and noticed no difference. I repeated this several times over months, and it's a Bust too. 

I would love to know CREAS methodology. How did they arrive at these results? I find the idea that moisture won't reabsorb once you exceed 68 Celcius (154.4f) most fascinating. What proteins did they use? Long cooks or short cooks? I have so many questions. In the end, I have not been able to validate CREAS claims.

Also, I sent them my findings and they chose not to respond......